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Posted on Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 6 a.m.

Ann Arbor's Croissant Shop reaches capacity, may expand to retail sales

By Janet Miller

croissant.jpg

Janet Miller | For AnnArbor.com

Kurt Boyd is a success despite himself: He doesn’t advertise, he has no Web site, he’s not interested in expanding beyond Ann Arbor and he’s just recently organized his bookkeeping after 33 years baking French pastries.

Yet each morning, six days a week, Boyd goes to The Croissant Shop tucked into the maze of identical buildings in the industrial park near the Ann Arbor Municipal Airport and bakes 500 croissants, ranging from rich and flakey plain and chocolate-filled to savory varieties.

And except for help with delivery and (now) bookkeeping, it’s a one-man show.

Demand for his croissants has grown so much over the past two or three years that Boyd is operating at capacity, working 15-hour days.

“The business has its ups and downs. Right now it’s at an up,” he said. “I can’t do much more.” He offers 12 flavors of croissants.

While the economy may be a factor, Boyd’s just not sure how.

“It’s funny. I seem to do better when the economy is bad and I don’t know why,” he said. “A lot of other bakers have gone under. I’m one of the last ones who is standing.”

Other than the behemoth across the street from The Croissant Shop: Zingerman’s Bakehouse is within shouting distance of Boyd’s bakery. That doesn’t intimidate him. “I was here first, they followed me,” he said.

Anyway, he’s not out to compete, even though Zingerman’s also makes croissants. “I’m not out to build an empire,” Boyd said.

Fresh out of Culinary Institute of America in upstate New York, Boyd returned to Michigan in the late 1970s to work at the storied London Chop House in Detroit. But when he reported for work, the job was gone and Boyd decided to go out on his own, baking croissants.

“Croissants had come to New York and had a huge impact,” Boyd said. “It was 1978 and they were just heating up.”

To fill in the gaps, Boyd also made tortes, cheesecakes and baguettes, selling to long-gone Ann Arbor institutions such as Escoffier and the Whiffle Tree. But his bread and butter has always been croissants.

The business end has never been an attraction, Boyd said. “It’s a creative thing for me. I need to do it.”

His croissants call for a lot of butter and are made by hand, not machine, Boyd said.

“Most croissants are made by machine and the dough is made to go through the machine. I stand here and make them by hand.”

He’s grown because of his fan base. That’s how he picked up Espresso Royale, one of his biggest accounts.

“Someone walked into an Espresso Royale and asked them if they carried my croissants. When they said no, they walked out.” Soon, Boyd added the six Espresso Royale locations to his customer list.

He moved his bakery around, tried his hand at retail on State Street and then on Church Street until he abandoned the headaches that came from high rents and a revolving door of young employees and settled into the 2,000-square-foot space at the industrial park in 1989.

He’s been quietly baking up to 3,000 croissants a month, plus a relatively small number of other pastries such as cinnamon rolls, pecan rolls and brioche, which account for only about 10 percent of sales.

Sales are almost exclusively wholesale, with University of Michigan cafes and Espresso Royale accounting for 60 percent of receipts. He also sells to Café Verde, Amir’s, Café Zola and Sparrow Meat Market and makes a puff pastry for eve the restaurant.

As he hits capacity, Boyd is thinking about his next move.

“It’s getting to the point that if I’m going to expand, I’ll go back to retail (in downtown),” he said. “The price differential between wholesale and retail had become huge.”

Retail price for a filled croissant is between $2.75 and $3. When he sold them retail, cost was $1.50.

While Boyd has resisted having a Web site, The Croissant Shop is on the Internet. Google croissant and Ann Arbor and The Croissant Shop appears at the top of a search, on local blogs and information pages.

“I’m not out beating the bushes,” Boyd said. “But the Internet has made a difference.”

Comments

Constance Colthorp Amrine

Thu, Dec 2, 2010 : 8:02 p.m.

His croissants are the best. I had to seek him out once in his State Rd facility for croissants to supply a morning meeting breakfast for some clients, and everyone was thrilled. I love finding these at Cafe Verde and I believe they are sold at Produce Station too.

Diane

Tue, Nov 30, 2010 : 4:43 p.m.

The baker and the bookkeeper appreciate ALL who have taken the time to locate the Croissant Shop and have stopped in to check out the best croissants this side of the Atlantic! As we are not yet retail oriented and we bake to order, please call 662-7424 prior to 9 a.m. the day before you would like your order. For products and prices or more information, email croissantshop@yahoo.com

God Loves Us All

Sun, Nov 21, 2010 : 2:44 a.m.

This man is blessed by God who can make us all prosper............

bunnyabbot

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 4:03 p.m.

honestly Kurt and Jeff Renner should consiladate their businesses into a partnership, if they did, hired a few people, held out a few years they could probably sell it and retire. Afterall Jeff mentioned something in another article recently written about him about retiring in a few years, if they don't plan a transition they'll have nothing to sell but equipment whereas thier customers/recipes/techniques are worth money when selling a business.

ginnilee

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 3:47 p.m.

Thanks for Heads-Up.I live within biking distance of the Croissant Shop & have been settling for Meijer's mediocre version for years-no more!

julieswhimsies

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 3:23 p.m.

This is great! Thanks for posting his number so I can place an order! I had no idea this shop existed!

Jeff Renner

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 3:13 p.m.

Nice story. Kurt was an inspiration when I started my business in '79 and gave me tips and hints. He willing to work a lot harder than I am, though!

bluetonguedlizard

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 2:49 p.m.

@AlphaAlpha, Ann Arbor has one true retail patisserie already - Cafe Japon on Liberty, next to Kilwin's. Check it out their stuff is delicious.

AlphaAlpha

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 1:07 p.m.

Ann Arbor deserves to have several good patisseries. Maybe this could be the beginning...

Janet Miller

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 12:09 p.m.

Yes, it's Espresso Royale, as mentioned earlier in the story. The change has been made.

TheGerman

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 10:51 a.m.

"Sales are almost exclusively wholesale, with University of Michigan cafes and Caf Royale accounting for 60 percent of receipts. He also sells to Caf Verde, Amirs, Caf Zola and Sparrow Meat Market and makes a puff pastry for eve the restaurant." Shouldn't that be Espresso Royale?

Blerg

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 10:40 a.m.

I've bought these cinnamon rolls at Arbor Farms before, and they're amazing. I had no idea they came from a one man operation!

InterestedReader

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 10:31 a.m.

I am amazed! How does he do this without any help?

kenUM

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 8:55 a.m.

Makes me hungry!!

dextermom

Sat, Nov 20, 2010 : 7:54 a.m.

Happy and enjoying what you do? What a hidden treasure! And OMG, the price for a dozen? If he goes retail, where do I apply? I promise I won't revolve out.