Angelo's Restaurant: Defining the Michigan breakfast
Angelo’s Restaurant epitomizes the Midwestern diner breakfast.
Framed by the culinary behemoths of the American coasts, it would be easy to lose our distinctive Midwestern identity in the grist — one wrought from the rusted tangles of industry and expanses of lakes and farmland. Too easy.
Many in the chattering class consider this region a cultural purgatory, a tilled canvas between America’s densely populated poles connected only by fading byways and highways. As for me, I’m an advocate of the unadorned open spaces. The land and food on the way to over-exposed America is America at its very heart: Land that’s big and green, and food that’s served in places like Ann Arbor’s own Angelo’s Restaurant on East Catherine.
Angelo's offers food iconic of the Midwestern diner. Especially in southeast Michigan, the diner exists among a special breed in gastronomy developed by Greek immigrants with a penchant for chili, hot dogs and breakfast stuffs.
Breakfast is where I begin my latest quest.
Starting with Angelo’s, my upcoming series will examine the food typically associated with the diner breakfast — eggs, potatoes, bacon, ham, pancakes, toast, donuts, the works.
You will hear from the gurus who’ve made it their life’s mission to promote the joys of these road food treats. And, you will get a few answers, a more complete understanding of our hometown’s place in contemporary American dining — one that is proudly unpretentious, and one that defies hackneyed stereotypes.
Angelo’s reputation as a diner comes on good authority. In a recent conversation with Michael Stern — a former Ann Arborite, co-webmaster of “Roadfood.com” and author of numerous food guides and cookbooks — he explained why he ranked the restaurant among the “Best of the U.S.” in his magazine, “Popular Plates: Quick Eats.”
Jessica Levine I Contributor
“Angelo’s has a personality. It’s got character and food that’s actually made by hand,” said Stern, speaking highly of its baked-daily bread that comes in white and raisin varieties. “Those things are ever rarer in the world, and that’s why we really treasure it.”
Whereas it is not a sleek, neon-dressed building off of Route 66, Stern believes that Angelo’s epitomizes the definition of diner. He warned me that we would get flak for the definition.
“To a lot of people, a diner is more about architecture and décor than it is anything else. To me — while I love the look of a classic diner — what’s more important is the food that’s served, the attitude with which it’s served and the attitude that people have when they come to it,” he said.
“The casualness, the relative inexpensiveness, the unpretentiousness of the food — those to me are the qualities that define a diner.”
Interestingly, Michigan’s diner culture has been largely shaped by immigrants from Greece, including entrepreneurs like Angelo Vangelatos who have merged traditional flavors and temperaments from the homeland with contemporary tastes.
The result, inexpensive meals and wanderlust: I can personally attest to Americans’ affinity for the open road and the food that jogs alongside it. Even to the most seasoned of travelers like Stern, however, the history of Greek influence is ambiguous.
“What’s interesting about so many of the Greek restaurants is that most of them don’t serve traditional Greek food,” he explained. “An argument can be made that the chili they use has a lot of Greek flavoring in it. However, you don’t find Greek dishes — sometimes you’ll see gyros, baklava and souvlaki. But, those are token Greek dishes. The bulk of the menu of so many of these places is burgers, salads, steaks and chops. It’s a mystery.”
Yet, what is clear at Angelo’s is its sense of community. Tom Kimball, a friend and resident of Dexter, frequents Angelo’s with his family and would attest to its welcoming familiarity. For him, it is a breakfast tradition that he began after hearing local singer-songwriter Dick Siegel's tune "Angelo's" on weekend radio. His enthusiasm is complete.
“An intangible sense of delight is created when a restaurant gets it right,” said Kimball. “Angelo’s has that elusive mix of well-trained, kind and sincere employees; great food with some unique and special menu items; and a comfortable ambiance favorable for sharing with someone you love.”
It’s Saturday morning, and the dining room is packed. Order tickets flank the kitchen window, as harried waiters dart from behind the counter to the crashing din of the dining room. Single-serve boxes of Special K and Fruit Loops lean against an original Angelo’s sign advertising its homemade bread — a mark of the quintessential diner.
Starting with eggs over easy, hash browns and toast, let the breakfast ventures begin. This is neither food nor culture you’ll want to miss. Pass the syrup, please.
Jessica Levine profiles the culture and history of Washtenaw County restaurants for AnnArbor.com. Contact her at levineeats@gmail.com.
Comments
Kitoula
Sun, Mar 13, 2011 : 10:44 p.m.
Yianni and I will have to come to AA to check out Angelo's. Maybe I'll do a blog post about our experience on <a href="http://kitoula.com" rel='nofollow'>http://kitoula.com</a>!
Wolf's Bane
Wed, Mar 9, 2011 : 6:59 p.m.
The best breakfast in town is to be had a Fleetwood Diner, in particular dry the Hippie Hash. It is hands down the best breakfast in Ann Arbor. Trust me.
Wolf's Bane
Wed, Mar 9, 2011 : 6:56 p.m.
Frank's has a great decour (right out of the 60s), but Angelo's has a better breakfast hands down.
PatrickB
Tue, Mar 8, 2011 : 7:02 p.m.
Defining the Michigan breakfast? I think not. We use to frequent Angelo's but no more. Food is over-priced and not that good. Service is far from exceptional. The waitresses and waiters don't seem to want to be there. I'm sorry, just not an enjoyable experience. Ann Arbor has several better breakfast places.
A2comments
Tue, Mar 8, 2011 : 12:02 p.m.
Agree with the "mediocre" comments. Never ate there while a student, finally tried it 30 yrs later. Won't go back. Flim Flam on Plymouth Rd is much better.
cook1888
Tue, Mar 8, 2011 : 9:40 a.m.
Mid 70s - Frank's Lunch on South U. Great omelettes and hash browns. Also, fabulous Korean Beef. A real diner run by people who liked to cook.
treetowncartel
Tue, Mar 8, 2011 : 3:11 a.m.
My first trip to Angelos was about thirty years agot, it looked a whole lot different back then and it had not yet received the hype it has endured over time. It had a much more iconic look to it back then, and a bit more familial charm. I have not been in quite a few years. The deep fried french toast was always a favorite. I agree that it is not that special of a place, and they basically have a monopoly being so close to the health system and the only game in that part of town. You used to be able to get some Omega Pizza right at the corner where Washtenaw and Huron hand off the baton to each other. If I remember correctly there was an Asian place right next door. Those places are long gone though. BTW, The best breakfast place in the county used to be Charlie's Country Squire.
David Briegel
Tue, Mar 8, 2011 : 3:23 a.m.
Omega was a great Pizza place. I loved it!
Jon Saalberg
Tue, Mar 8, 2011 : 2:54 a.m.
I know Angelo's is an Ann Arbor institution, an honor it's held virtually my whole live, since I'm a townie - however, whenever our family makes a rare excursion out for breakfast, it's almost always to the Northside. From their killer French Roast to the Morning Eggdition sandwich to the locals eating around us, and WEMU wafting through the speakers, it's our family's idea of what breakfast should be.
a2phiggy
Tue, Mar 8, 2011 : 1:10 a.m.
While I have enjoyed Angelo's food, I have never felt welcomed as a guest. I have returned a few times to see if perhaps the greeter was having a bad day, but each and every time I feel as if I am interrupting them. I hope that their service philosophy doesn't define what Michigan is, or can be! There is plenty of room for more customer-centric restaurants in A2 - keep 'em coming!
magnumpi
Tue, Mar 8, 2011 : 1:55 p.m.
wow, nail meet head, lol. that is one of the reasons i don't go there anymore unless it was to meet someone--but it's been awhile.
Sofia Toti
Tue, Mar 8, 2011 : 12:33 a.m.
I've tried Angelo's once or twice & have to say it's a place best suited to parent-student bonding over hangove-feeding carbs. The bread, in particular, is nothing to write home about. Texa Toast, really. These days when I want savory, prompt breakfast, it's Northside Grill.
IceCreamGirl
Mon, Mar 7, 2011 : 10:28 p.m.
Over rated. The last time I was there my toast tasted like gas and the service was horrible. The wait staff seemed more concerned about wrapping silverware. There are too many other good choices in Ann Arbor... this place now runs on old reputation not good food and service.
ViSHa
Mon, Mar 7, 2011 : 10:19 p.m.
i don't know about breakfast, but their open-face turkey/mashed potato thing is the bomb!
cubicle
Mon, Mar 7, 2011 : 9:51 p.m.
There's no doubt that Angelo's represents a (University of) Michigan diner, but it's hardly representative of a (State of) Michigan diner. I would say that a place like Bomber or maybe Tony's in Birch Run are better candidates for that honor.
John B.
Mon, Mar 7, 2011 : 9:32 p.m.
My wife and I ate breakfast at Angelo's (for the first time) a year or so ago. We found the food to be mediocre and overpriced, disappointingly. It wasn't packed that particular day/time, so maybe we caught them at a bad time? I was kind of shocked....
EyeHeartA2
Mon, Mar 7, 2011 : 9:24 p.m.
I was went there for breakfast once, about five years ago. I was so impressed that I haven't been back. I went with my wife who pretty much echoed my opinion. The same food can be had at numerous diners all over A2 at places with "Coney Island" in the name ($2 cheaper). As they say at the football games.......over....rated. But WCSX does play that song, so at least there is that. They don't need my business anyway, so you guys can have my seat. I'd offer you my parking too, but there is none to offer.
David Briegel
Mon, Mar 7, 2011 : 9 p.m.
I love The Glass House in Palmer Commons! Great food and beautiful location!
Ignatz
Mon, Mar 7, 2011 : 8:50 p.m.
I do love the food at Angelo's parking is toughish and it seems the seats are made for midgets ;-) Nothing to deter me, though.
Steve Burling
Mon, Mar 7, 2011 : 3:16 p.m.
Make sure you try Frank's on Maynard. Less well-known than Angelo's, but I like the breakfast better.
Juno
Mon, Mar 7, 2011 : 12:13 p.m.
Michael Stern's got it right! Angelo's raisin toast is unparalleled. And thanks for adding the photos--nice touch:)