Peggy Lampman's Thursday dinnerFeed

Slender zucchini, nuanced in green; scalloped pattypans, dazzling bursts of sunshine; crookneck squash in swishy lemon-lime swirls, nestled in containers like gaggles of goslings — Ralph Lauren’s summer lineup of clothing could never compete with nature’s tasteful collection of summer squash. And the babies — ah, the charming Thumbelinas of the squash world — never cease to enchant.

Each year it seems a new varietal hits the runway. Last year a pattypan knockoff called “Flying Saucer” caught my eye. The stem tilted slightly off-kilter, as if contemplating a trajectory flight across the galaxy. A couple of tables away rested the “Bowling Balls,” swollen with summer heat, begging to be stuffed. And what is more delicious than blistered baby zukes hot off the grill, brushed with olive oil and a pinch of salt?

This year’s lineup at the farmers market is no exception. I purchased one of every design in the newborn category. As well, I couldn’t resist the baby redskin potatoes, the size of an almond, and tiny cherry tomatoes, no larger than a lima bean. What to do with my bounty? Keep it simple: a quick blanch, followed by a simple vinaigrette.

Many baby vegetables, especially those purchased the day they are picked, are at their height of flavor served raw. After that first day, they become limp, so — if appropriate — I blanch them in heavily salted, rapidly boiling water a minute or two. I follow the immersion with an ice water bath if I plan to serve them cold, room temperature or reheated. This procedure yields a flavorful crunch, and the icy bath intensifies their natural color. The whole potatoes take longer to cook, 10-15 minutes in boiling water.

Good basic vinaigrettes follow a loose rule-of-thumb: 1 part acid to 3 parts oil. After that, the rule book is closed. Vinaigrettes are subject to interpretation and open for adjustment at every turn. A good olive oil, fresh lemon juice, garlic and basil was all my simple supper required. I served this simple baby vegetable salad with a triple cream cheese and a crusty artisan baguette.

As Michigan vegetables gather momentum tumbling into the heady folds of summer, lengthy recipes can be tiresome. We want this runway parade to inspire, rather than overwhelm. As one might accessorize an outfit for a summer evening on the town, less is so often, more.

Yield: 6-8 servings
Time: 30 minutes

Ingredients

1 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 heaping teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 cup chopped basil
4 cups baby (3/4 inch to 1 inch) squash, root ends trimmed if desired
4 cups baby (1/2 inch to 1 inch) redskin potatoes, washed
2-3 cups baby cherry tomatoes, washed

Directions:

1. Make a vinaigrette by whisking together olive oil, lemon juice and garlic. Stir in basil and season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Reserve.

2. Bring two large pots of heavily salted water to a boil. In one pot, boil potatoes 10-15 minutes, depending on size of potato, or until tender. Drain.

3. In the other pot, blanch baby squash 1-3 minutes, depending on size of squash and desired degree of tenderness. Drain squash, then place in an ice water bath. When squash is chilled, remove from bath and pat dry.

4. Toss the squash, potatoes and tomatoes with the vinaigrette. Add kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste, if needed. Serve immediately or let the salad sit in the vinaigrette a few minutes at room temperature, stirring occasionally, to absorb additional flavor.

*Note: After a couple of hours of refrigeration, squash will begin to discolor.