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Posted on Tue, Aug 4, 2009 : 10:21 p.m.

Home on the Grange

By David Bardallis

bardallisgrange.JPG
Webster’s tells us that “grange” means a “farm, especially a farmhouse with outbuildings.” And while there are no visible outbuildings at 118 W. Liberty St., the restaurant taking the place of the space formerly occupied by Bella Ciao owes more than a little to local agriculture.

Grange Kitchen and Bar formally opens to the public this Friday, Aug. 7, with the philosophy that “the freshest ingredients, grown sustainably and sourced from people we know, are the basis for the best food.”

“Local is the focus of what I do,” said Brandon Johns, head chef and partner of Grange (pictured right). “I’ve been cooking with local food for a while now, and Grange is another, more thorough dimension of that.”

Johns, who most recently served as a partner at Vinology, is largely self-taught, honing his skills in New York, Chicago, and, closer to home, at Real Seafood and the Chop House.

“I’ve been looking for a long time to have my own business,” he said. “Finally, it was the right time and the right location, which was the right size for what we’re doing.”

With an emphasis on local ingredients, seasonality obviously will shape what is served at Grange.

“Seasonality will play a big role,” said Johns. “We’ll be changing the menu as often as necessary to reflect that.”

The summer seasonal menu features such entrees as grilled pork loin with buckwheat dumplings, pickled rhubarb, and fennel sausage and house made pasta with farmers market vegetables, basil pesto, and parmesan. Appetizers include chorizo with dates and blue cheese and country style terrine with pickled vegetables.

And what of those long Michigan winters — will there be more available than snowshakes, slush puppies, and ice salad?

“We will make and store a lot of ingredients—for example, tomato sauce and pesto—to prepare for the winter months,” said Johns.

Food isn’t the only local thing about Grange. The restaurant is a family affair of sorts. Rob Cleveland, another partner, is Johns’ brother-in-law and his sister, Kate, is also part of the business.

“It’s kind of a small, family thing,” said Johns. “We’ve all known each other a long time, and we hope that feeling of family will extend to our guests.”

A sneak preview of Grange Kitchen and Bar can be had on Thursday, Aug. 6, but reservations are required and seats are limited. See their Web site for details on how to make reservations, view the current menu, and sign up for email updates on seasonal menu changes, special events, and what’s new in the upstairs small plates lounge.

David Bardallis is a freelance writer and editor, blogger, bon vivant, and man about town. Visit his Web site, DavidBardallis.com.

Comments

chefbrian1

Wed, Aug 19, 2009 : 12:43 p.m.

I agree with Patti that there needs to be way more mid level priced eateries that prepare local food. Unfortunately, for the past 30 years fast food and chain restaurants sprung up instead of small places with a local/season/regional focus. With that said, I feel that it is important to support the efforts of the these local food heroes even at the high end. If we do, more will start popping up with a bigger variety of price ranges from local pizza and sandwiches to upscale fine dining. I kind of look at this way. Every now and then, I see fund raisers with local themed meals to support/promote local food organizations or charity. These meals are for run from $100-250 a plate. They feature a great chef, and all local ingredients, but I cannot afford $150 a plate, especially if I want to take my girlfriend too, so I have never been. But $30-50 a plate at the Grande sounds more reasonable and it supports local food too.

Patti Smith

Wed, Aug 5, 2009 : 7:51 p.m.

I love the idea of local food and I understand that it will cost more, but the prices are way out of my range. :( Perhaps they can eventually do what other restaurants did for restaurant week and have some cheaper plates for poor starving teachers? (Okay, it's not as bad as all that, but still) Btw Dave "bon vivant and man about town" = best.description.ever! Very awesome :)

Tony Dearing

Wed, Aug 5, 2009 : 12:38 p.m.

A comment was removed because it contained disparaging remarks.

David Bardallis

Wed, Aug 5, 2009 : 10:14 a.m.

Salmon caught fresh from the Huron River! I kid, I kid...

Jennifer Shikes Haines

Wed, Aug 5, 2009 : 10:06 a.m.

Freemind - they're not ALL local, there are things like King Salmon and dates on the menu, but there's no doubt that the slant is towards local.

Freemind42

Wed, Aug 5, 2009 : 8:39 a.m.

This sounds really good. I will be stopping by soon to try it out. I love the concept of using all local food.

Jennifer Shikes Haines

Wed, Aug 5, 2009 : 5:31 a.m.

Thanks for this, Dave. I've been very curious about Grange Kitchen. I liked Johns's cooking over at Vinology.