Home on the Grange

Webster’s tells us that “grange” means a “farm, especially a farmhouse with outbuildings.” And while there are no visible outbuildings at 118 W. Liberty St., the restaurant taking the place of the space formerly occupied by Bella Ciao owes more than a little to local agriculture.

Grange Kitchen and Bar formally opens to the public this Friday, Aug. 7, with the philosophy that “the freshest ingredients, grown sustainably and sourced from people we know, are the basis for the best food.”

“Local is the focus of what I do,” said Brandon Johns, head chef and partner of Grange (pictured right). “I’ve been cooking with local food for a while now, and Grange is another, more thorough dimension of that.”

Johns, who most recently served as a partner at Vinology, is largely self-taught, honing his skills in New York, Chicago, and, closer to home, at Real Seafood and the Chop House.

“I’ve been looking for a long time to have my own business,” he said. “Finally, it was the right time and the right location, which was the right size for what we’re doing.”

With an emphasis on local ingredients, seasonality obviously will shape what is served at Grange.

“Seasonality will play a big role,” said Johns. “We’ll be changing the menu as often as necessary to reflect that.”

The summer seasonal menu features such entrees as grilled pork loin with buckwheat dumplings, pickled rhubarb, and fennel sausage and house made pasta with farmers market vegetables, basil pesto, and parmesan. Appetizers include chorizo with dates and blue cheese and country style terrine with pickled vegetables.

And what of those long Michigan winters — will there be more available than snowshakes, slush puppies, and ice salad?

“We will make and store a lot of ingredients—for example, tomato sauce and pesto—to prepare for the winter months,” said Johns.

Food isn’t the only local thing about Grange. The restaurant is a family affair of sorts. Rob Cleveland, another partner, is Johns’ brother-in-law and his sister, Kate, is also part of the business.

“It’s kind of a small, family thing,” said Johns. “We’ve all known each other a long time, and we hope that feeling of family will extend to our guests.”

A sneak preview of Grange Kitchen and Bar can be had on Thursday, Aug. 6, but reservations are required and seats are limited. See their Web site for details on how to make reservations, view the current menu, and sign up for email updates on seasonal menu changes, special events, and what’s new in the upstairs small plates lounge.

David Bardallis is a freelance writer and editor, blogger, bon vivant, and man about town. Visit his Web site, DavidBardallis.com.