A fraction of the haul
Leelanau peninsula wine
In order to lessen the yearly blow, my mother and her sisters have started the tradition of an Annual Michigan wine tour. Every October, we head to Leelanau Peninsula, the Napa Valley of the Midwest, and see just how many bottles of local wine we can fit into the average Escalade.
Of course, it isn’t easy. Many vineyards offer a by-the-case discount, so it was actually cheaper (we reason) to buy twelve from each vineyard. This is how the madness begins. As you can imagine, it wasn’t long before we were tumbling in and out of the tastings, laden with cases, shifting luggage and rearranging passengers at each stop. The tastings also don’t require you to spit—so our wallets and inhibitions were progressively loosened (the driver, she would like you to note, remained sober). After two days and 75 bottles purchased, we should at least be able to offer a few humble recommendations:
Our first stop was L. Mawby, a proprietor of fizzy wines—or sparkling, if you prefer. Known for their sultry-named bottles, Sex and Fizz are the top-selling offers. The first few tastings are complimentary, but $5 will get you two glasses and a cheese plate, which is worth it for the herbed chevre alone.
Leelanau Cellars is perhaps the best known of the Michigan vintners. Their bottles are available in the local wine section of most supermarkets, but the tasting experience is always a great one, with an incredible view of Lake Michigan and friendly staff. Their Great Lakes Red is an excellent red for people who only drink white; it’s indistinguishable from grape juice except for a slight tang at the end. Best picks for whites include Tall Ship Chardonnay and my favorite, the Late Harvest Riesling.
45 North is a relative newcomer to the Michigan wine scene. Named after the 45th parallel on which it resides, this burgeoning label surprised us all by offering the very best Cherry Dessert wine we had ever tasted: the cherries are cold pressed, then fermented in bourbon barrels and fortified with spirits. Store it with a block of your favorite dark chocolate and save it for a special evening.
Cherry Republic is more of an outlet store than a proper winery, but fun for kids and overflowing with free samples of everything cherry, from fudge to trail mix to salsa and BBQ sauce. The Abbondanza has a pleasant kick, and is a nice cherry wine for those who usually find them too sweet. Of course, there’s always the Boom-Chugga-Lugga sodas if you’re looking for something nearer a Shirley Temple.
At Bel Lago, we enjoyed the view of the aging barrels from the tasting room, as well as the Late Harvest Pinot Grigio. This slim bottle was originally a mistake due to the harvest freezing in an unexpected frost. The result was Bel Lago’s attempt at ice wine, and with its apricot and pear notes and clean finish, it is a very nice attempt indeed; it has proved so successful that they have started making it on purpose.
The best white at Bower’s Harbor would be the Cooper, named for the Bernese Mountain dog who often trots into the tasting room and around the grounds greeting visitors. A similar bottle—a memorial to the late, original greeter Otis—is also available, and is a top seller, although a bit drier.
Chateau Grand Traverse presents an overwhelming opportunity for the oenophile shopper. Paraphernalia includes corks, wine racks, stands, glasses and food items such as specialty mustards and dips. The best—and most interesting—wine is the Botrytis Riesling, named for the Botrytis Cinerea fungus that caused the grapes to shrivel, thus concentrating their flavor. Much like a good cheese, the bacteria made a beautiful and harmonious impact. (Note: This one’s not always available for tasting; we were lucky to catch a bottle open.)
That ought to get you started. Until next year
Sarah Smallwood is a freelance writer living and working in Ann Arbor. She is currently rewriting her first novel, keeps a daily blog at The Other Shoe and hosts a podcast at Stuff with Things. She can be reached at heybeedoo at gmail dot com.

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