Peggy Lampman's Thursday dinnerFeed: Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Chanterelles
Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Chanterelles
Peggy Lampman | Contributor
No matter you’ve a full-time job. No matter you’ve a gaggle of children underfoot. You’ve been anointed into the sacred realm of the Scratch-Cooking Society. Your family has branded you Gourmet Guru. In hushed tones, your friends bespeak a culinary prowess that would bring Mario Batali to his knees.
But the dishwasher is broken, the dog is sick, and you’ve promised to bring a traditional pilgrim dish to the kid’s class party. And that dish better not be store bought. You’ve been branded.
Chanterelles roast faster than Brussels sprouts.
You change tactics, pretending you’ve amnesia. “I’ve forgotten how to boil water,” you say, hoping friends and family will come to your rescue. “What’s that?” you inquire, pointing to the food processor.
Everyone laughs. Such a funny person. “So what are you making for Thanksgiving?” they respond.
“Remember. Aunt Sara is vegetarian and does not eat saturated fats. And, by the way, Frederick adores that creamy bacon sauce you make.”
“So now I’m your short-order cook?” you’re tempted to say. But you remain silent. You smile. You’ve been anointed.
Making the bacon-sherry sauce
Here’s a dish, rather two dishes, that may come to your rescue. You roast Brussels sprouts with chanterelles then stop. A dish to serve Aunt Sara. You continue, reheating the Bacon-Sherry-Cream sauce (you made two days ago) then toss it with the remaining roasted Brussels sprouts and chanterelles. Frederick will beg seconds. Genius.
This is the season for Brussels sprouts, which makes them a perfect dish for the Thanksgiving table. I’ve met folks who never liked them, only to find them delicious roasted in the oven. The outer leaves are crispy, and their grassy green body is toothsome, nutty and slightly sweet. Roasting Brussels sprouts intensifies their herbaceous, earthy flavor.
I’ve been spotting fresh chanterelles at local markets lately, particularly at the Produce Station on North Main. Chanterelles are wild mushrooms with a subtle apricot flavor, particularly delectable in sauces for poultry, pasta and with egg-based dishes. Fresh chanterelles are also sublime roasted with vegetables, particularly Brussels sprouts.
Before using them, cut off the stem end and lightly brush off dirt with a paper towel or clean cloth. Don’t wash chanterelles unless you absolutely must — and in that case it’s best to do it right before cooking.
Dried chanterelles are easier to come by and may be found at most groceries throughout the year. Many cooks find the drying process intensifies their flavor profile. I wouldn't roast rehydrated dry mushrooms. If using in this recipe, I'd sauté them in a bit of olive oil for the reduced-fat version; or in the last three minutes of cooking time with the cream sauce. Save the water used for soaking them. It would lend a flavor boost to your sauce.
As for the simple-to-make sauce? How could you go wrong with a symphony of bacon, butter, cream and sherry? (Just make sure to move the sauced batch away from Aunt Sara. She's had her share!)
Yield: Approx. 6 servings
Cost: $16 (fresh chanterelles are "dear", approximately $10 per pound)
Time: (sauce may be made up to 48 hours in advance) 40 minutes
Ingredients
Bacon-Sherry-Cream Sauce (optional recipe follows)

1 pound medium to large-sized Brussels sprouts, cut in half lengthwise
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms*

1/2 cup grated Parmigianno Reggiano (if not using cream sauce)
1 tablespoon lemon juice (if not using cream sauce)
* You may substitute 1 ounce of dried chanterelles, rehydrated according to package instructions; add to sauce in the last three minutes of cooking time with a tablespoon of the soaking liquid.
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Make Bacon-Sherry-Cream Sauce, if using, and reserve. (Recipe follows)
2. Trim stem ends of Brussels sprouts, pulling off any yellowed leaves and wash well.

3. Toss the Brussels sprouts with 2 tablespoons olive oil. Place spouts, in one layer, on a large, foil-lined baking sheet, reserving part of baking sheet for chanterelles.
4. With a damp towel, wipe chanterelles clean. Cut in half, lengthwise. Gently toss in remaining olive oil.
Place chanterelles next to sprouts on baking sheet. Lightly season sprouts and chanterelles with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.
5. Roast on middle rack of oven 10 minutes. Remove from oven. Turn Brussels sprouts over and remove mushrooms from baking sheet.
6. Return Brussels sprouts to oven. Continue roasting 5 minutes, or until cooked to desired tenderness.

7. If omitting Bacon-Sherry-Cream Sauce, toss Brussels sprouts and chanterelles with lemon juice and Parmesan and serve. If using sauce, omit the lemon juice and Parmesan, and toss with warm sauce.
Ingredients for Bacon-Sherry-Cream Sauce
2 strips of bacon, cut into slivers
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided
2 tablespoons finely chopped shallots
3 teaspoons fresh chopped thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dry
1/8 cup sherry
1/2 cup heavy cream
Directions for Bacon-Sherry-Cream Sauce
1. Cook bacon over low heat until just crispy, 6 to 8 minutes; remove and reserve, leaving bacon fat in pan.
2. Add 1 tablespoon butter to pan and melt; add shallots and thyme and sauté over low heat until just transparent. Add sherry, raise heat slightly and reduce 1 to 2 minutes until slightly thickened.
3. Whisk in remaining tablespoon of butter; when melted, whisk in cream. Gently cook, whisking, until sauce is emulsified, 1 to 2 minutes. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. (Sauce may be made and refrigerated up to 48 hours in advance.)
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