Some atavistic thread entwined in my DNA makes eating soft-shell crabs an exquisitely delicious, yet primal, eating experience. Yes, the rumor is correct. You do eat the entire crunchy crab--right down to its pointy little pinchers.

The soft-shelled crabs I just enjoyed were courtesy of the Chesapeake Bay. Soft-shelled crabs also may come to us Michiganders from Floridian waters, depending on the vagaries of habitat and water temperature.

Soft-shell crabs are not a crab species, but distinguish themselves because of their development process. When the crabs outgrow their shell, the delectable crustaceans shed (molt) their exterior, resulting in their infamous soft covering. Soon after, they begin rebuilding their shell.

Mike Monahan, owner of Monahan's Seafood in Kerrytown, tells me: "The best soft-shelled crabs are sold and eaten within 24 hours of molting, and it's tricky handling them to make that happen."

"Watermen carefully read the color of the (crab) shells and get them into holding tanks at precisely the right time before they molt. Once they've molted," continued Mike, "they are very fragile. The crabs must be packed in newspaper or straw and immediately shipped to us, alive and quickly, so we can sell them that day."

Monahan's does not sell frozen soft-shell crabs, only stocking the fresh ones. Mike tells me they are harvested after the first full moon over the Chesapeake Bay in May, and sold through Labor Day, give or take a couple of weeks. Mike recommends calling in advance, to ensure availability. I would also recommend you request they clean the crabs for you. Otherwise you must remove the face, apron, gills and innards yourself, a task ill-suited for the squeamish!

According to the website, bluecrab.info/molting, soft-shelled crabs stop eating prior to molting. This may be part of the reason properly cooked soft-shelled crab has a purity and essence of crab flavor at its most sublime.

This recipe is adapted from a recipe I've enjoyed (Arugula with Sautéed Softshell Crabs and Toast Points) from "Lettuce In Your Kitchen", (1996) by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby.

Yield: 2 main courses (4 appetizer servings)

Ingredients for Tartar Sauce*
Yield: apx. 3/4 cup

3/4 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 tablespoons finely diced dill pickle 2 teaspoons minced red onion 1 tablespoon capers, optional Worcestershire sauce Tabasco

*I purchased freshly made tartar sauce from Monahan's, which was exceptional.

Ingredients for vinaigrette

1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon celery seeds 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme plus extra sprigs for garnishing crab 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Ingredients for salad

1 large ear fresh corn 1/3 cup all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon Old Bay Seasoning, other seafood seasoning or paprika* 1/2 teaspoon cayenne 4 soft-shell crabs, cleaned (I request my fishmonger clean them) Canola or vegetable oil as needed for frying crabs 6 cups baby spring greens, gently washed and spun dry 1 small lemon, quartered

*If your seafood seasoning if sodium-free, add 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Directions

1. If making tartar sauce from scratch, in a small bowl combine mayonnaise, lemon juice, pickle, onion and capers, if using. Season to taste with Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce.

2. To make the vinaigrette, in another small bowl, combine lemon juice, celery seeds, sugar and thyme, then slowly whisk in olive oil. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Reserve.

3. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook corn for 2-3 minutes or until just tender. Drain. When cool, and with a sharp knife, carefully cut kernels from cob. Reserve.

4. In a large shallow dish, combine flour, seafood seasoning and cayenne. Gently pat crabs dry with paper towels, then coat both sides in seasoned flour, tapping off excess seasoned flour before frying.

5. Coat a large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan or cast iron skillet with 1/4 inch of oil. Heat oil over medium-high heat. (Oil should be hot but not smoking. Oil is ready for crabs when it lightly bubbles when you add a speck of water.)

6. Carefully place crabs in oil and fry until golden brown on each side, 3-5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels.

7. Toss baby greens and corn kernels with two-thirds vinaigrette adding additional vinaigrette to taste. Divide greens on two large plates and center 2 crabs on each bed of greens. Top crabs with tartar sauce and garnish with thyme sprigs. Serve with lemon wedges.