You are viewing this article in the AnnArbor.com archives. For the latest breaking news and updates in Ann Arbor and the surrounding area, see MLive.com/ann-arbor
Posted on Fri, Mar 19, 2010 : 4:33 a.m.

Peggy Lampman's Friday dinnerFeed: Donna's caesar salad with pumpernickel-dijon croutons

By Peggy Lampman

I've always assumed Caesar Salad was invented by an Italian chef honoring Julius Caesar and his famed Roman empire. History has it on March 15, 44 B.C. - about 2054 years ago - Caesar met his fate at the hands of his Senate.

Volumes have been written and romanticized, often contradictory, regarding the precipitous murder of Julius Caesar.

lampmancaesarsalad.JPG

Peggy Lampman | Contributor

The origins of Caesar Salad are contradictory, as well. According to Wikipedia, the salad's creation is often attributed to San Diego restaurateur Caesar Cardini in 1924.

As his daughter Rosa reported, her father invented the recipe when a restaurant... “rush depleted the kitchen's supplies. Cardini made do with what he had, adding the dramatic flair of the table-side tossing ‘by the chef'."

My friend, Donna Newsom, continues the Caesar Salad evolution with her own spin on Caesar Salad recipes. Back in the seventies, Donna held the much coveted position of making tableside Caesar’s at the historical Lord Fox restaurant, still known for their “Tableside Caesar for Two."

lampman.jpg

I was envious of Donna’s job as she made the “big bucks,” usually guaranteed a nice tip if she performed the tableside Caesar ritual flawlessly. Donna continues to make an incredible Caesar Salad, so I was hopeful she’d share her recipe with Ann Arbor readers.

“There is a great deal to say about this salad,” said Donna. “But I can’t give you a recipe because there is no recipe.” I’m used to butting heads with her and refused to give up without a fight. “Surely you can come up with something,” I replied, my voice reflecting my irritation.

“The Caesar is not made with a recipe since it has a subjective dressing,” she said. (“Subjective” dressing?) “I never use a recipe because some people like more lemon or vinegar; some like their anchovies as a garnish, and others may like them in the dressing.”

lampmandonnaandcaesar.jpg

Donna and "Caesar"

She continued by explaining that some folks like lots of garlic, others very little; some prefer copious grinds from the peppermill, others, none at all. “I’ve always made the salad according to the requests of my guests,” she explained. Fair enough, I thought. But I still didn’t have a recipe.


“I feel like I’m in some obscure cult or a secret society of Caesar Salad lovers,” Donna reminisced. “I think I’m the only one in the society. These days, I don't know anyone who makes Caesar dressing at home from scratch,” she said ruefully.

I finally convinced Donna that folks may actually join her "Caesar Society" if she'd share a recipe, quantifying ingredients to her own palate.

This recipe is completed by my own stamp: homemade Pumpernickel- Dijon croutons are delicious in the salad. Fortunately Donna agrees!

lampman.JPG

Yield: 4 main course salads (1/2 cup dressing)

Ingredients

Garlic clove half, plus1-2 teaspoons minced garlic 3 anchovy fillets 1 heaping teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 egg yolk* Dash Worcestershire Sauce 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper 8 cups washed, cut or torn romaine lettuce lettuce Parmigianno Reggianno

 1-2 cups Pumpernickel-Dijon croutons (recipe follows) *Egg may be "coddled" (shell pricked then boiled in water for 1 minute) before using, if desired.

Directions

1. Rub cut side garlic clove around interior of wooden salad bowl. 2. With a fork, mash together 1 teaspoon minced garlic, anchovy, and mustard. Whisk in egg yolk, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice and red wine vinegar. Slowly whisk in olive oil and continue whisking until emulsified. Taste and add additional minced garlic, if desired, and freshly ground pepper, to taste. 3. Toss lettuce and 1 cup croutons into dressing, adding additional croutons to taste. Liberally season with Parmesan and serve.



Pumpernickel-Dijon Croutons (Yield: 2 cups)

Ingredients

1/2 loaf best quality pumpernickel bread (can be day old) 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon minced garlic

Directions

1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. 2. Slice pumpernickle into cubes; apx. 1/2-inch diameter X 1/4-inch thick. You should have 4 cups. 3. Whisk together olive oil, mustard and garlic and toss bread cubes into mixture, covering each crouton well. On a foil-lined baking sheet on middle rack of oven, bake until crispy, 20-35 minutes, depending on freshness of bread, tossing croutons over with a spatula half-way through cooking.


Visit me on dinnerFeed for more more seasonal recipes and local value (recipe search engine on site.) Mini-recipes daily fed to you on my dinnerFeed Twitters.