I am shocked the summer has slipped by and I haven't made a batch of vichyssoise, my favorite chilled soup. But with mid-September temperatures pleasantly warm, it seems like a fine dinnerFeed for tonight. My vichyssoise recipes, like the hemline on a skirt, change with culinary fashion and momentary disposition.

Some years I load this classic potato-leek soup with butter and cream. Other years I totally eschew butter and substitute skim milk for cream. Often I've added fresh watercress to the brew--what a lovely color and subtle pepperiness that lends. Whatever I do to this wonderful soup, it's always delicious! Today I'm a vichyssoise moderate, you'll find me lurking somewhere in the middle, between the milk and the cream. Fat or no fat, it is imperative to let the soup rest, refrigerated, 12-24 hours. The flavor and rich texture radically improve with the imposed isolation.

To cut the fat, eliminate the butter and simply simmer the potatoes and leeks in the stock. As well, substitute milk for half and half or creme fraiche. If you do that, you may want to reduce the stock, to thicken the brew. To add richness, substitute heavy cream for the half and half and add more butter, as desired, when you are sautéing the leeks-while you're at it, add creme fraiche to taste!

This would be sublime as a prelude to the July 27 dinnerFeed of Grilled Balsamic Lamb Chops. I would serve the lamb with a simple salad, dressed with additional balsamic vinaigrette.

Yield: apx. 3 1/2 cups Cost: apx. $6.50 Active Time: 15 minutes Simmer Time: 20 minutes Rest Time: 12-24 hours

Ingredients

2-3 leeks, white and light green parts only, washed thoroughly and thinly sliced (4-5 heaping cups) 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 medium russet potatoes (apx 1 1/4 #), peeled and sliced 4 cups chicken stock 3 tablespoons creme fraiche* or 1/2 cup half and half Kosher salt and white pepper

*Creme Fraiche is easily made by whisking equal amounts of sour cream and heavy cream together. Let the mixture sit, covered, at room temperature 12 hours. Stir, cover again, and let sit an additional 12 hours at room temperature. Then use in recipe, refrigerating the leftovers. It's available for purchase at most groceries as well.

Directions

1. Sauté leeks in butter over low heat 2-3 minutes, or until tender and limp. (Do not allow leeks to brown as that will darken desired cream color.) 2. Add stock and potatoes. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer. Simmer about 20 minutes or until potatoes are very tender. 3. With an immersion blender or in a food processor, purée potatoes, leeks and stock until creamy. Stir creme fraiche or half and half into soup. Season to taste with kosher salt and white pepper. 4. Refrigerate 12-24 hours. Serve, garnished, with chopped chives.