Soft-Shell Crabs with Baby Green Salad

Peggy Lampman | Contributor

Eating soft-shell crabs is an incredibly delicious, albeit primal, eating experience. For indeed the rumor is true; you eat the entire crunchy crab — down to its tiny crunchy pinchers. The following is my favorite recipe, to date, for soft-shell crabs.

Soft-shell crabs are not a crab species but distinguish themselves because of their development process. When the crabs outgrow their shell, the delectable crustaceans shed (molt) their exterior, resulting in their infamous soft covering. Soon after, they begin rebuilding their shell.

Mike Monahan, owner of Monahan's Seafood in Kerrytown, tells me: "The best soft-shelled crabs are sold and eaten within 24 hours of molting, and it's tricky handling them to make that happen."

Especially since Monahan's does not sell frozen soft-shell crabs, only stocking the fresh ones. Mike tells me they are harvested after the first full moon over the Chesapeake Bay in May, and sold through Labor Day, give or take a couple of weeks.

Mike only orders what he anticipates he'll need to get him through the day but tells me he'll be purchasing extra for Mother's Day (are you reading this Zan?). He recommends calling in advance, to ensure availability.

I would also recommend you request they clean the crabs for you. Otherwise you must remove the face, apron, gills and innards yourself, a task ill-suited for the squeamish!

This recipe is adapted from a recipe I've enjoyed (Arugula with Sauteed Softshell Crabs and Toast Points) from "Lettuce In Your Kitchen" (1996) by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby.

Yield: 2 main courses (4 appetizer servings)

Ingredients for Tartar Sauce*
Yield: approx. 3/4 cup

3/4 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons finely diced dill pickle
2 teaspoons minced red onion
1 tablespoon capers, optional
Worcestershire sauce
Tabasco

*I purchased freshly made tartar sauce from Monahan's, which was exceptional.

Ingredients for vinaigrette

1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon celery seeds
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme plus extra sprigs for garnishing crab
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Ingredients for salad

1 large ear fresh corn
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon Old Bay Seasoning, other seafood seasoning or paprika*
1/2 teaspoon cayenne
4 soft-shell crabs, cleaned (I request my fishmonger clean them)
Canola or vegetable oil as needed for frying crabs
6 cups baby spring greens, gently washed and spun dry
1 small lemon, quartered

*If your seafood seasoning if sodium-free, add 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Directions

1. If making tartar sauce from scratch, in a small bowl combine mayonnaise, lemon juice, pickle, onion and capers, if using. Season to taste with Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce.
2. To make the vinaigrette, in another small bowl, combine lemon juice, celery seeds, sugar and thyme, then slowly whisk in olive oil. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Reserve.
3. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook corn for 2-3 minutes or until just tender. Drain. When cool, and with a sharp knife, carefully cut kernels from cob. Reserve.
4. In a large shallow dish, combine flour, seafood seasoning and cayenne. Gently pat crabs dry with paper towels, then coat both sides in seasoned flour, tapping off excess seasoned flour before frying.
5. Coat a large, heavy-bottomed sautee pan or cast iron skillet with 1/4 inch of oil. Heat oil over medium-high heat. (Oil should be hot but not smoking. Oil is ready for crabs when it lightly bubbles when you add a speck of water.)
6. Carefully place crabs in oil and fry until golden brown on each side, 3-5 minutes per side. Drain on paper towels.
7. Toss baby greens and corn kernels with two-thirds vinaigrette adding additional vinaigrette to taste. Divide greens on two large plates and center 2 crabs on each bed of greens. Top crabs with tartar sauce and garnish with thyme sprigs. Serve with lemon wedges.