metro times: 'Jiro Dreams of Sushi' a cinematic treat
Jiro Dreams Of Sushi
Opens today at the Michigan Theater
Review by Corey Hall of the Metro Times
Jiro Ono serves up tiny slabs of fatty pink succulence, his nimble fingers working rice and fish into exquisitely compact morsels, molding the ingredients with the same rhythmic, economical motions he has performed thousands of times before, daily repetitions in a ceaseless quest for perfection. His many admirers feel that he has already achieved it, though the unfailingly modest, reserved octogenarian believes there is always room for improvement.
Sukiyabashi Jiro, where he has been refining his craft for decades, is an unremarkable-looking sushi shop, tucked neatly into a quiet corner of the otherwise bustling Ginza subway station in Tokyo. It is an oasis of simplicity, a bar with just 10 seats, few decorations and no restroom. This humble, subterranean enclave earned the ultra-exclusive Michelin 3-star rating in 2007, one of the highest honors any restaurant can attain. With deep-set eyes, and well-earned wrinkles, Jiro resembles a wise, old snapping turtle — nothing less than a sage of the kitchen.