Brothers-in-law Murali Jayaraman and Prabu Pandian thought that Ann Arbor was in desperate need of a South Indian restaurant, so they decided to open Madras Masala, characterizing it as “A South Indian sizzle.” That was in June 2003, and the restaurant is still going strong. Restaurant manager Alexander Lawrence, who does much of the cooking, explains that while Northern Indian cuisine relies more on butter and cream, South Indian dishes are spicier, using more pepper.

Outside of Madras Masala restaurant in Ann Arbor.

Mark Bialek for AnnArbor.com

Located just across from Nickels Arcade, the façade of Madras Masala is deceivingly small. Shaped a bit like a tunnel, the space is deep, extending quite a distance, so it can accommodate many diners. The ambience is warm, with a carpet of rich tones and dark colors.

Though the menu is extensive, it’s nicely divided into several categories, assorted by ingredients like chicken, lamb and seafood, making it easy to navigate. In addition to traditional Indian dishes, there’s a separate section for Indo-Chinese entrees.

We decided to start with the Indian basics, and our favorites, the vegetable pakora and vegetable samosa. Both were wonderful, a mixture of spices pleasing to the palate, and a delicious fried, but not greasy, coating to the vegetables.

The other standard Indian dishes were also quite good, including the lamb curry and aloo gobi. I especially liked the way the tandoori chicken was cooked. It was moist and delicately bathed in a flavorful mix of spices. Though I enjoyed the shrimp briyani, I found myself searching for the shrimp, treasure-hunt style, as there weren’t many amidst the rice.

Both of the breads we ordered, the naan and aloo kulcha, were very good, though the aloo kulcha could have used more potato filling; it was difficult to distinguish it from the plain naan. The rich, dense, fruity taste of the mango lassi drink we ordered was a great way to counter the spiciness of the dishes.

What sets apart this Indian restaurant from others I’ve frequented were the Indo-Chinese dishes. I especially liked the Masala dosa. The dosa is a rice crepe shell, while the masala refers to the stuffing: mildly spiced potatoes with green chile and ginger, along with lentils. Though the portion was large, it was light in taste and texture, not overwhelming. I enjoyed the combination of the lentil sauce with the other ingredients.

Another interesting dish was the mixed vegetable noodles with tofu. Chinese noodles are paired with an abundance of scallions, ginger, garlic, hot pepper, carrots, onions and mushrooms. This was a different take on the standard noodle dish, with the spices adding a delightful twist.

I barely scratched the surface of the entrees in this area and would definitely like to try more of them. Madras Masala has a daily lunch buffet, including a very extensive one on the weekends, which provides a great opportunity to sample a variety of their many offerings.

Servers were particularly attentive here, though our meals came out piecemeal and haphazardly, as dishes were ready. One of the appetizers we ordered was delivered after the main course. I barely had room for the massive dosa, since it was delivered so long after the rest of our meal arrived that I forgot I had even ordered it. Portions here are generally quite large. We had ample leftovers for the next day.

Madras Masala has such an inviting atmosphere and innovative food. It’s definitely worth stopping by if you find yourself in this corner of town.

Madras Masala 328 Maynard Street Ann Arbor 734-222-9006 Madras Masala web site Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. for the buffet and 5 p.m.-10 p.m. for dinner. Friday, 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. for the buffet and 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m. for dinner. Saturday, 12 p.m.-3:30 p.m. for the buffet and 5 p.m.-10:30 p.m. for dinner. Sunday, 12 p.m.-3:30 p.m. for the buffet and 5 p.m.-9:30 p.m. for dinner. Plastic: Visa, Mastercard. Liquor: Yes. Prices: Moderate. Entrees are $12-$13 on average. Value: Excellent. Noise Level: Medium. Wheelchair access: Yes. Smoking section: No.