Melanie Maxwell | AnnArbor.com

A friend who has accompanied me to several restaurants observed on a recent visit to 207 N. Main St. that this was the third time she had been to this location with me, and each time it was a different restaurant. Sheesh Mediterranean Cuisine, which opened at the end of January, has some shoes to fill — those of the many who came before it in this location, which has been prone to turnover.

The restaurant is owned by Mike Ibrahim and Abe Tarhini, two former employees of the popular Dearborn-based La Shish, which had a restaurant in Ann Arbor in the space where Palm Palace is now located.

Unlike the previous tenant of this space, also a Mediterranean restaurant, Pita Bite, which had left the surroundings untouched, Ibrahim and Tarhini did some redecorating. They left the enchanting faux tin ceiling intact, but installed comfortable and inviting rust and brown-colored booths. It’s a simple touch but it reduces some of the previous stark appearance.

The restaurant’s freshly brewed black tea infused with fresh mint was a perfect way to begin our meal.

Homemade pita and salsa at Sheesh.

Melanie Maxwell | AnnArbor.com

When you head to Sheesh, come hungry — really hungry — as the portions are gigantic. This is good news, as the food is generally solid, so leftovers are a bonus.

One of my favorite parts of my meals here was the pita — thick, square puffy pillows of sweetness — and it was great paired with Sheesh’s homemade salsa, as well as the creamy, garlic-laden hummous.

I appreciate how the chef infuses lemon into many dishes to provide a subtle sweet tang. This includes the hearty tabouli and the baba gannouj, a true standout, in which grilled eggplant lent a smoky, appealing taste. The tart, fruity taste also worked well in the hearty vegetarian ghalaba — truly a delight. I didn’t appreciate that flavoring as much in the spinach pie, which was bitter, yet bland.

Both of the soup options were fantastic. The addition of lamb brought an interesting Mediterranean flavor to chili, while the lentil soup was outstanding: thick, hearty and delicious. And the salads we ordered — rice almond, fattoush turkey and the house — were similar to each other but all good, made with fresh greens and tossed with just the right amount of dressing.

I’ve ordered the chicken shawarma sandwich at other Middle Eastern restaurants before and find it can often be incredibly dry. That was not so here, where the tender, marinated chicken, cooked on a rotisserie, was complemented by a delicious pickle and garlic sauce to add moisture. Even the French fries that accompanied it were wonderful: hot, crispy and seasoned just right.

Hommous, a Falafel Plate and tabbouli at Sheesh.

Melanie Maxwell | AnnArbor.com

The mjadara, a dish consisting of lentil and cracked wheat, always one of my favorite Middle Eastern vegetarian choices, was decent, though smothered with far too many onions. I thought the charbroiled lamb shawarma was generally well cooked, but was a bit salty.

Sheesh orders its baklava from Shatila Bakery in Dearborn. The server explained that baklava is time-consuming to prepare, so they preferred to get it from a place that does it well. I couldn’t agree more. A light, crumbly pastry, it was a perfect conclusion to a first-rate meal.

The server, Mark Dandurand, who greeted us, worked at Pita Bite previously and he was just as friendly as in my previous experiences dining at this location, refilling our tea often and bringing our dishes at a decent pace. He was clearly eager to please. Sheesh’s food was so good that I hope my friend and I have many future opportunities to dine here.

Julie Halpert reviews restaurants for AnnArbor.com.

Chicken ghalaba at Sheesh.

Melanie Maxwell | AnnArbor.com