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Posted on Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 10:28 a.m.

Toppers adds another option to William Street 'pizza row'

By Julie Halpert

The addition of Toppers Pizza, which opened in January, has helped turn the Maynard and William corridor into pizza row. Toppers joins Cottage Inn and New York Pizza Depot as well as another recent addition, NeoPapalis.

Toppers is a franchise, with headquarters in Wisconsin. Moe Baydoun, the owner of the Ann Arbor store, is undaunted by the competition. He said he "fell in love with the hip brand" and thought it would be a perfect fit in this college town. What makes Toppers stand out, he says, is that everything is made fresh, with cheese from Wisconsin.

Baydoun said it was a challenge turning a former shoe repair shop into a pizza place, and he gutted the interior in order to transform it. It looks slick and sparkling clean. The area beyond the counter is open, so you can see the employees preparing the food.

There's a tiny eating area with a few high-backed stools and tables, with room for a dozen people, where you wait while your food is being prepared. Three out of the four flat-screen televisions were tuned to ESPN on our visits, but the sound was turned off, since popular tunes were blaring from the speakers.

RESTAURANT REVIEW

Toppers Pizza
607 E. William St., Ann Arbor
734-585-5337
www.toppers.com
  • 10:30 a.m.-4 a.m. every day.
  • Plastic: Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Discover.
  • Liquor: No.
  • Prices: Inexpensive.
  • Wheelchair access: Yes
The menu is geared to the college crowd, especially those unconcerned by calories. There's no pretense of healthfulness here; not even salads are offered.

The focus is on unusual varieties of pizza with a range of exotic ingredients. The combinations are so rich, they would test even the most forgiving stomach. For example, the "hangover helper" consists of Canadian bacon, onions, green peppers, potatoes, and bacon bits, topped with mozzarella and cheddar; while the mac 'n cheese pizza is cheese sauce layered with macaroni noodles, smothered in a mound of mozzarella, with cheddar served on a pizza crust.

No one in my family could be convinced to give these a try, so we first opted for the basic plain cheese pizza, which I thought would be a good test. The pizza was fine if unremarkable, with ample amounts of tomato sauce.

The second time around, we decided to be a bit more adventurous, ordering the meat topper. Ideal for the dedicated carnivore, it consists of pepperoni, both Canadian and American bacon, tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. All the toppings were high quality, especially the thick squares of the regular bacon.

I didn't enjoy the California topper. The combination of spinach, artichoke hearts, tomatoes, feta, mozzarella and ranch sauce was overpowering. The ranch sauce, on top of two very rich cheeses, didn't make for an appetizing pizza.

There are three choices of crust: hand-tossed, crispy and the "signature" Tall Boy crust. While the Tall Boy was slightly puffier and airier than the other two, there was no substantial difference among the three.

Baydoun says "nobody has anything equal to our Topperstix," which are made from fresh dough and Wisconsin cheese. Yet I thought they were similar to cheese sticks that you would get from many pizza places. I did like them better when they were paired with the wonderful cucumber sauce, a big improvement over the traditional ranch dressing dip.

In addition to pizzas, Toppers offers a few other items. We sampled its pizza quesadilla, called the "Q'Za," opting for both the chicken and plain cheese versions. The cheese is between two layers of a tortilla crust. I thought this was inventive and a nice twist. It was just as good as the pizza, and the chicken version was a hearty offering.

Toppers offers both Buffalo and boneless wings. We ordered the Buffalo wings cooked in a barbecue sauce. The wings on their own were unappetizing and had a bitter taste, but the sweet and smoky barbeque sauce served on the side substantially improved them.

We sampled one of the eight toasted grinders offered here, the Italian sausage and peppers. I enjoyed the thick, quality, toasted French roll that was the foundation for the gigantic sandwich. The three types of peppers — green, banana and jalapeno — added a nice mixture of spiciness, complementing the mozzarella and pizza sauce.

On our first visit, I was told that the order took as long as it did, 25 minutes, because the wings take longer to cook. That would have been helpful to know in advance of ordering. The second time around, the server promised my food in 10 minutes; it took 20. Since the eating area is small and not an ideal place for lingering, a better choice would be to order ahead.

Staff people were very pleasant on both our visits.

While there isn't anything wrong with the pizza at Toppers, it doesn't offer much that isn't already found in this campus corridor and in the greater Ann Arbor area. Still, with so many students in the vicinity craving this type of fare as sustenance round-the-clock (Toppers is open until 4 a.m. every day), it may nonetheless prove to be a popular option.


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Julie Halpert reviews restaurants for AnnArbor.com.

Comments

John

Thu, Apr 4, 2013 : 2:32 a.m.

I was just saying to myself the other day how I wish we had a place where I could get sperm jokes with my pizza. Great timing Toppers!

obviouscomment

Thu, Apr 4, 2013 : 12:05 a.m.

OMG the pics look delicious!!!

Use Logic

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 9:36 p.m.

NeoPapalis wins in a landslide. The rest are the same kind of slop you can buy at the Speedway station.

Nicholas Urfe

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 7:02 p.m.

Objection. That photo is definitely *not* old school pizza. That is a modern pizza oven. It moves the pizza through the oven in stages, automatically. Very little skill or action required. A traditional pizza oven has a brick or stone surface. They are very hot. It requires a great deal of attention and skill to cook a pizza. Many pizza experts argue the automatic ovens are just a fast-food compromise.

oyxclean

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 7:16 p.m.

I take it you are a pizza aficionado ?

you can't handle the truth

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 6:58 p.m.

Come on! Somebody open a White Castle!!!

Nicholas Urfe

Thu, Apr 4, 2013 : 1:07 p.m.

I don't think that would be possible until the city treatment plant capacity is expanded. That'll cost tens of millions.

Hmm

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 6:54 p.m.

Toppers kind of sucks

almightydanish

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 6:22 p.m.

I ordered from Toppers and when I got the pizza home, it was still raw. Pretty bummed about that.

Nicholas Urfe

Thu, Apr 4, 2013 : 1:07 p.m.

It's sad that it happens in the era of those automated "fool proof" pizza ovens. It's unfortunate that you really need to pop the box top before leaving to look at it, and investigate further if it looks over or under.

PersonX

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 5:08 p.m.

Bring back the shoe repair store ... this is preposterous.

An Arborigine

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 4:51 p.m.

We now have a "pizza row" parallel to the "tech corridor", is that all part of this "placemaking" initiative? Might I suggest an "upscale dining wing" and a "franchise food annex" as possible additions?

Brad

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 6:20 p.m.

Pizza Pie Plaza? 'Za Zone?

RUKiddingMe

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 4:24 p.m.

We really need a Pizzapapalis. I guess it's too pricy or something, but that deep dish of theirs (literally a pie) is unbeatable. Pizza House tries to do it, but can't. I was absolutely heartbroken to discover that NeoPapalis would NOT have these.

Nicholas Urfe

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 7:05 p.m.

Buddy's is said by many to just be a ripoff of Loui's. I was very skeptical when an acquaintence took me there, insisting I must have the pizza, with grand claims. But it was a real deal. http://louispizza.net/

Lizzy Alfs

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 5:31 p.m.

Buddy's! When I was in high school that was one of our lunch spots - it was right down the street from my school in Birmingham/Bloomfield area. @RUKiddingMe: Do you like the Original Cottage Inn deep dish?

Rico

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 4:43 p.m.

What we need in Ann Arbor is a Buddy's Pizza.

Nicholas Urfe

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 2:40 p.m.

Ann Arbor needs better slice pizza. And not pizza with a bunch of stuff on it, that doesn't even taste like pizza. The best pizza can stand on it's own, with only cheese or one topping.

Nicholas Urfe

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 7:03 p.m.

NYPD is merely okay. They emphasize heavy ingredients. The basic slices are merely fair.

GoNavy

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 4:25 p.m.

There's nothing wrong with NYPD. Having lived in NY, I can assure you I've had much worse.

oyxclean

Wed, Apr 3, 2013 : 4:03 p.m.

Try NYPD. Great 'za by the slice.