Zingerman's Roadhouse: Comfort food at uncomfortable prices
"You can expect your experience to be full-flavored and fun! We want you to come away feeling satisfied and satiated. If you're not, we'll refund your hard-earned money. It's as simple as that." As I continued to read the Zingerman's Roadhouse Guarantee, I became more excited to dine at the seventh establishment of the Zingerman's empire located on Jackson Road in Ann Arbor. After all, how could I go four years in Ann Arbor without trying it at least once?
Zingerman's Roadhouse
I had a 7:30 reservation on a Friday night. Running about 10 minutes late, I called to change the reservation time to 7:45 p.m. The hostess was extremely accommodating, noting that my reservation change was perfectly fine and that she really appreciated my phone call. Upon my arrival, I was offered a table on the just-opened outdoor patio. Although the patio was covered with heating lamps, it was still a little too brisk, so my friend and I asked to wait for a table inside. We were seated within minutes.
Zingerman's Roadhouse décor really is "homey." The wood flooring, exposed beam ceilings, brightly lit booths, cabinets filled with collections of salt and pepper shakers (my mom used to do that as well, so it really felt like home) and a smiley staff all made the atmosphere feel casual and welcoming. The setup of the Roadhouse is unlike any other restaurant I have ever seen: maze-like, with small dining areas in multiple directions, an open kitchen in the center and a bar snuck into the back left corner of one dining room. It sounds confusing, but somehow, I didn't see people run into each other the entire time I was there. Impressive.
Bread Basket
Sarah Mintz | Contributor
As soon as we were seated by the hostess, a young gentleman arrived to fill out water and mentioned that our waiter would be over shortly. Another young man brought us over a bread basket with butter. Although the sourdough bread, made fresh by Zingerman's Bakehouse, had a crispy crust with warm chewy inside, I was already disappointed by the overload of individual waitstaff approaching our table. I could not build a relationship with one particular waiter, was unsure of who to ask questions and felt rushed by how quickly our dinner was moving. As soon as the bread server left, a young lady arrived, mentioned that she would be our server for the night and immediately asked what we would like to drink.
Drink Menu
Sarah Mintz | Contributor
The extensive list of drinks in a three-ring book made it impossible to order right away. I still hadn't even taken my jacket off! The drink book was separated by colorful tabs, but my friend and I still had to ask our waitress to come back two times. When we inquired about a few of them, our waitress basically told us, "They're all good!" She was no help. Frustrated with the menu, I ended up with my old reliable go-to Pinot Grigio (Oak Grove Reserve, California) while my friend ordered the Buster Brown, a combination of Maker's Mark, freshly squeezed lemon juice, simple syrup and Gary Regan's orange bitters. The mix of bourbon and sweet lemon juice was delicious. Unfortunately, it was not until half-way through our first appetizer that the drinks arrived - not necessarily the best timing and another example of how rushed I felt. Now
I cannot speak on behalf of everyone and am sure some diners like a quick in-and-out experience, but for me, I'd like to have a sip of wine before diving into my appetizer, order my entree before my appetizers arrive and also fully enjoy my $17 appetizer before making me push it aside as my main course arrives.
The menu comes delivered inside of Zingerman's seasonal newsletter. Knowing my time was limited before the waitress would return, I threw the newsletter aside and immediately tried to work my way through the double-sided menu of classic American comfort food. Barbecue, fried chicken, macaroni and cheese and sandwiches abound. However, even with the focus on local produce, I was surprised by the lack of vegetarian options. Along with the menu came a piece of paper on a small clipboard with a cheese menu on one side and oyster menu on the other. Although it was a nice touch, I stuck to the main menu.
Sweet Potato Fries
Sarah Mintz | Contributor
We started with a small order of the Sea Islands Sweet Potato Fries. It is sad to say that something as "simple" as this was the highlight of my entire dinner. I am used to skinny McDonald's sized sweet potato fries, so the thick steak fries were a delightful surprise... and that was even before I took my first bite! Each fry was well-salted, crispy on the outside, warm and creamy on the inside and had a more magnified flavor when dipped into the accompanying spicy mayo. When we ran out of dipping sauce, our waitress graciously brought back another dose to finish up the basket. Sadly, even when the fries were gone I couldn't help think about how much better the Potato Latke Fingers served at Zingerman's Deli are. Everything from the fried latke strips to the roasted red pepper sauce trump the sweet potato fries I had just finished. And after the carb-filled bread and fries, I was full. Ut oh.
Macaroni & 3 Peppercorn Goat Cheese
Sarah Mintz | Contributor
Next came the macaroni & cheese. I was not raised in a household that made a lot of mac and cheese (I was turned off by my dad who always poured Domino granulated sugar on top of his - don't ask), and definitely have never ordered it at a restaurant. However, Zingerman's Roadhouse takes mac and cheese to a whole new level. With six options to choose from, I had to at least try one. I know from other frequent patrons that when customers inquire about different dishes, the server usually brings over samples of items to try- mac and cheese, entrees, etc. That did not happen here.
To my disappointment, the Macaroni & 3 Peppercorn Goat Cheese was just okay. Maybe I was expecting too much, but the description of handmade goat cheese sauce, roasted Cornman Farms red peppers, peppercorns, Martelli Pasta,and fried Zingerman's Creamery Lincoln Log cheese made me think that this dish was going to blow my mind. If anything, it just blew a hole in my wallet. For $17, I was expecting much more. The pasta was bland, and the cheese lacked any real flavor. I mostly dug into the fried cheese on top, because that was the only part of the dish I felt that wasn't possible to make at home.
Duck Breast
Sarah Mintz | Contributor
I was torn when it came to ordering my entrée. Was I going to go with the classic Fried Chicken entrée- I've been on a fried food kick lately- or a special of the week, the Roasted Local Duck Breast served over Zingerman's red polenta grown at their own Cornman Farms and ground at the Roadhouse with Ig Vellas mezzo secco cheese and sautéed local shitake mushrooms? When I asked our waitress, she mentioned that they are "both good" (of course) but the duck was only going to be on the menu this week and was selling like hotcakes. I went with the duck. Big mistake. The presentation of the dish was messy, the duck was extremely gamy, with a thick layer of fat, and the flavor did not improve with the mushrooms or polenta. As soon as the other entrees arrived, I pushed mine aside. I should have stuck with the fried chicken.
Pit-Smoked Beef Brisket
Sarah Mintz | Contributor
Thankfully, my friends' Pit-Smoked Beef Brisket was absolutely delicious. The meat was very tender and flavorful and the tomato barbecue sauce did not overwhelm or take away from the aroma of the smoked meat. My only complaint about the dish is that the portion size of meat left much to be desired. The meat appeared like an accompaniment to the other three quarters of the plate which was filled with a massive mound of grits (we swapped out the mashed potatoes) and a little heap of braised greens. The grits were a home run - melted in my mouth and creamy, with no gritty texture at all. Regardless, I would have appreciated a larger portion of Brisket much more in order to balance out the plate.
Spare Ribs
Sarah Mintz | Contributor
Finally we shared a half rack of Pit-Smoked Spare Ribs. The ribs, cooked for nine hours and served with the same tomato barbecue sauce from the brisket, were awesome. And where the presentation of the dish lacked, the spare ribs made up for it in flavor. The meat was lusciously tender and every bone came out completely clean. I was also much happier that the sauce came on the side with this dish, because the succulent ribs made it unnecessary. I am not a fan of barbecue sauce anyway; I personally believe that BBQ and Teriyaki sauce hide the true flavors of whatever is underneath.
Thank goodness the meal had come to a close. I was comatose full - so full that I even opted out of dessert despite the mouth-watering menu. I know that is totally against my personal values, but the rich and heavy meal left my stomach with no more room. Don't get me wrong, I will be back for Ari's doughnut sundae soon.
Did I like the food? Yes. Was I impressed? Not at all. While I appreciated the focus on local ingredients, I was disappointed by the follow-through on turning the ingredients into standout dishes and was unable to stomach the pricey upscale comfort food options. Thankfully, service was friendly, attentive and yes, overly efficient; Ari, co-founder of the $30 million Zingerman's kingdom, even refilled our waters on occasion. Cool! Zingerman's Roadhouse was definitely an underwhelming experience, and while I do not plan to return any time soon, I am craving a Zingerman's Deli sandwich, #76 "Thad's Yes I Can!" right about now.
Zingerman's Roadhouse
Address: 2501 Jackson Road, Ann Arbor
Phone: 734-663- FOOD
Email: roadhouse@zingermans.com
Parking: Private Lot
Payment: American Express, Diners Club, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Amenities: Banquet/Private Rooms, Bar Dining, Beer, Counter Seating, Fireplace, Happy Hour, Patio/Outdoor Dining,
Wheelchair Access: Yes
Cuisine:American, Barbecue, Comfort Food
Ambiance:Casual, Family Friendly
Reservations:Suggested
Smoking:Non-Smoking Restaurant
Price:$20 - $30
Sarah Mintz is a contributor to AnnArbor.com's Food and Drink section. She is a senior at the University of Michigan's Ross School of Business. You can follow Sarah's other dining blog and contact Sarah at smintz@umich.edu.
Comments
padfoot
Sat, Apr 24, 2010 : 8 a.m.
I kept reading this post simply because the writing was so lousy and the writer so poorly informed about food in general (complaining that duck is fatty? Has she ever eaten duck before?). It was hard to take her opinions of the place seriously. Also, did she ask for a refund of her "hard-earned money"? Why quote that at the beginning of the post if she wasn't going to take them up on the offer?
Jennifer Shikes Haines
Sat, Apr 24, 2010 : 5:39 a.m.
I have to agree with those who felt this review was too harsh and under-researched. It might be better to post after having several experiences at a restaurant, not just one. I'm also in the category of people who have had many, many successful and lovely dinners at the Roadhouse. For the record, I've never had a server say "they're all good" and I agree that the mac and cheese dishes are not my favorites, but I also think it's a matter of taste - they're well-prepared and the issue tends to be whether you like the creamier, blander version, which many people (including my son) do. The fish dishes, specials, fried chicken, crab louis salad (at lunch), burgers, beverages, breakfasts are all amazing, IMHO. The prices reflect top (and often local) ingredients and one of the most talented chefs in the area. The Zingerman's bashing gets old.
mrk
Wed, Apr 21, 2010 : 2:09 p.m.
Go for brunch. The breakfast/brunch menu is to die for. It's also much more pricy than your typical breakfast place, but they really know how to do what they do... and it feels special so I don't mind paying $10-12 for breakfast. I have been underwhelmed by lunch and dinner there... the exceptions have been the sweet potato fries, which I think are amazing, the hamburger, which costs like $10 if you don't get cheese and bacon -- worth it, and the pimento cheese which was a free sample. Mmm. Seriously, though, for breakfast, the eggs benedict, the corned beef hash... the "Pain Perdu Fasten"... all amazing. I was a little disappointed with the grits 'n bits waffle. And every time, except one, we have had amazing service. That one other time it was okay service.
reknedrog36
Wed, Apr 21, 2010 : 9:19 a.m.
I commend Ms Mintz on her incisive review of Zingerman's Roadhouse. IMO a review should be honest and forthright, rather than the numerous antiseptic evaluations so prevalent today. One should not dismiss her opinions as that of a "student" rather than a Ruth Heichl, a past restaurant reviewer for the NYTIMES. Frank Bruni, one of the better TIMES restaurant critics, previously was a journalist and a media critic for the Detroit "Freep". One should evaluate a restaurant on three criteria--food, service and ambience, the order of importance I defer to the reader. As a past restaurant owner of a high profile chef oriented restaurant and having traveled extensively in the US, Europe and Southeast Asia, my opinion is secondary. If we all liked the same restaurant(s), one could have difficulty gaining seating. Ann Arbor is a fine restaurant city with a diverse selection--no great restaurants but many ranging from poor to very good. Lastly, one should equate value with the product received. Just my opinions!
hattrix
Tue, Apr 20, 2010 : 8:04 p.m.
I agree that the vegetarian options are VERY limited. We eat at the Roadhouse a lot and since becoming a vegetarian, I have found the selection disappointing. However, I have had two vegetarian entrees there that were AMAZING! One was a special stuffed eggplant and the other is the grits cake with peppers and cheese. I am not a fan of mac and cheese so don't even consider any of those as options. As far as I can remember, the only other veg option is a black bean burger that friends tell me is not worth ordering. The rest of our family loves the BBQ at the Roadhouse. The desserts are great. And this is always high on our list of places to go for a good meal or take friends from out of town. Sorry the reviewer wasn't charmed, but she should try it again!
treetowncartel
Tue, Apr 20, 2010 : 9:07 a.m.
The Roadhouse is akin to the spread offense in the big house, overated and not nearly as entertaining as its predecesor which built the original reputation.
babs
Tue, Apr 20, 2010 : 2:13 a.m.
(1)A little research would have shown that the original building on that corner, the bones of it, was a Bill Knapp's restaurant, hence the 'maze-like' formation. (2)There is mention in the article of a '$17' appetizer without saying which dish was this price...was it the sweet potato fries? Sounds over-priced for a sweet spud. Since when did heavy fries constitute an appetizer and not a side dish? Sounds like an appetite dead-ner to me. (3) What is an "ut oh"? "I am used"....? were you really used? "I went with the duck"...where did you two go? Am I being picky? Okay, yes I am. Perfect? Wish I was. (I miss the good old Ann Arbor News). But I agree with the reviewer about the Mac 'n Cheese. Years ago, my niece drove 3 hours to eat with us at Zingerman's Roadhouse. Her mac 'n cheese was flavored (highly) with a Maytag blue which left the enormous mound of gluey penne pasta a strange purple color. She could not eat more than a 1/4 of the very rich dish. My mother-in-law was sold by the eager waiter on the fried green tomato and bacon BLT sandwich. The waiter had made quite a case for the specially smoked bacon. Well, there was a meager one and a half strips of bacon on the enormous sandwich. When he asked how she liked it, she told the waiter she wished it had more of a bacon flavor. He told her that if the chef thought it needed more bacon, there would have been more bacon, that they wanted the fried green tomato to stand out but he would ask the chef about it. He grandly carried out a plate with one more strip of bacon and presented it with much fanfare. I was not sure if he was sincere or was just taking her for a ride. And the giant pile of half consumed deconstructed bread, tomato etc was $10. She still talks about it years later. There is no perfect place to dine out, everday the restaurants get a chance to prove it and we get a chance to put them to the test. Enjoy the journey.
Alex Corwin
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 7:25 p.m.
I have eaten at the Roadhouse plenty of times and never had a bad experience. The food is always wonderful, the staff have a good energy, and the atmosphere is inviting. The last few times I've eaten at Zingerman's Roadhouse, I've been given free donuts and a free beer sample. Both of which were fantastic! While choosing to eat one of the specials makes sense, the author states in the second paragraph of the great aroma coming from the pit smokers out back. If it's your first time at a ROADHOUSE, then you should always play into their wheelhouse and eat some of the barbecue. You can never go wrong with Zingerman's BBQ either. As the author mentioned, the beef brisket and ribs are phenomenal. If you're going to give a review of a restaurant, you should give it on the merit of their signature dishes which they're known for and are always on the menu. Specials can really come down to personal tastes. Duck is usually a little gamey and fatty, but people like that flavor and texture profile. Overall, the author liked the bread, the sweet potato fries, and 2 out of 3 entrees. It sounds like a 7 out of 10 and a definite recommendation to my ears. Especially if you're into barbecue. While Zingerman's may be a bit expensive, it certainly isn't overpriced for the quality of food and the superb execution. And yes, there's a difference in overpriced and expensive. I hope this author's review doesn't deter people from giving Zingerman's Roadhouse a try and sampling some of their barbeque. It'll be worth your time and money.
townie54
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 7:15 p.m.
Also she had clearly never had duck before.Its not the restuarants fault you didn't like the duck.Duck is duck.(Which I would never order)But I will agree on the mac & cheese.With all the hype you expect to be overwhelmed but it was bland when I had it.My Granny's had much more flavor.And why dont the Roadhouse have weekend breakfast?No matter what anyone says the prices are too high for me.Good thing there are a lot of well heeled people in Ann Arbor to keep them busy
Lokalisierung
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 6:31 p.m.
"...but THE PUBLISHED AUTHOR..." Dude...this is a story from a reader of annarbor.com. We are living in a total blog world & it is your mistake to think that annarbor.com only takes pieces from acredited food critics. I won't even get into credentials for writing about food and peop ecalling themselves "foodies" these days which is so lame. Ha...I will give you the steak fries thing though...that is classic.
gogmagog8
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 6:08 p.m.
She has it in for the Z...her going on and on about the HIGH prices...and didn't even mention cost when she was at her "swanky" Eve wine tasting...same price point...even says so in the detail at the bottom of each "report". Foodie bimbos of the world unite!! Bring It On!!
gogmagog8
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 5:57 p.m.
@ Lokalisierung I guess that is my point...she is writing for a publication of record...which should/could have some voice of authority. I expect my "journalism" to have some expertise or special knowledge to back up its point of view. I am a reader...I don't need to establish credentials to read or comment...but THE PUBLISHED AUTHOR should freely divulge established credentials which give the voice authority. Otherwise, we are living in a total blog world...which, I guess is where I MAKE MY MISTAKE...to assume that we are not...and that annarbor.com is an actual news source. I just don't want to read about what some U-M senior thinks about food when she clearly doesn't have a very expansive or informed point of reference about food. Nor does she have a very compelling writing style. (I didn't either when I was her age.) Frame of reference: "It is sad to say that something as "simple" as this was the highlight of my entire dinner. I am used to skinny McDonald's sized sweet potato fries, so the thick steak fries were a delightful surprise... and that was even before I took my first bite!" OMG!!!!! Thick steak fries....what a wonderful surprise!!! I love them so much...Bring It On!!!
URmaster
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 4:23 p.m.
I like the 'x-tras' with my soup. 'nuff said.
Blerg
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 4:12 p.m.
I was at the Roadhouse yesterday for lunch with friends from out of town (they drove an hour to Ann Arbor just to have lunch at the Roadhouse), and we were all beyond satisfied with our meals. The agreement at the table was that the prices are worth it. Sure, I can get a sandwich or burger for a couple bucks less elsewhere, but it simply isn't as good. I'd also point out that a parking lot full of cars, no matter the day or time, is rather resounding evidence that the place has legions of foodie fans.
Lokalisierung
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 1:07 p.m.
@ gogmagog8 Can we hear your "credentials" please? The author must now know anything becasue she eats at Paesonos and you "regurlarly" eat at Roadhouse? Let's hear it.
URmaster
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 12:33 p.m.
Zingerman's deli and the Roadhouse, I feel are coasting on a reputation and justifying the prices based on the "perceived" quality. Over the years, we have dined at the deli and and the roadhouse and both have started to suffer in quality. In particular, I was dismayed at by the weak Tomato soup (with hair), the frozen egg salad sandwich, the overpriced "fresh" fish (flash frozen). I'm not saying things are bad, just not consistent enough to charge this inflated prices. I have to agree with the reviewer, the food is good, but not THAT good.
gogmagog8
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 12:31 p.m.
I mean really...what kind of writing is this? I feel like we are all now relegated to high school book reports as the benchmark of journalistic standards. This "book report" on Z's Roadhouse is simply simple minded...and she clearly has an axe to grind. Yes...I want to hear what someone who celebrates Paesano's has to say about food!! I regularly eat at Z's Roadhouse and really not much of what she says rings true with my experiences there. Z's Roadhouse is simply one of the better and more interesting places to eat in Ann Arbor and more often than not reaches a high standard of preparation, presentation and service (although...service, I will grant you, is never going to be an Ann Arbor restaurant's long suit given the labor pool upon which to draw.) I sure would love to hear a little more about Ms. Mintz' credentials. I have my suspicions. If this is what we are in for when it comes to local food writing, I am very very sad.
Lokalisierung
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 11:21 a.m.
"This is simply one person's rather uninteresting blog." Yeah...on a blog/news site...what do you expect? Years ago there were food critics that went around becasue no one else had the technology to share their experience. Now, we don't need food critics since other people can post things, and they are "normal" people who more closely share opinions with your average joe.
Gaboo
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 7:46 a.m.
I too have been unimpressed with the Roadhouse. My husband and I went soon after it opened and had a mediocre meal, including soggy french fries. But, we gave them the benefit of the doubt (new and having to still get the bugs out) and went back for lunch. I ordered a grilled cheese sandwich that was abominable. It should have been wonderful - Zingerman's bread with artisanal cheese but there was one slice of cheese melted into one side of the sandwich (and didn't even cover the whole slice of bread). The second side of the sandwich didn't even stick to the one with the cheese. If you really want a great grilled cheese, go to Northside Grill. Now there's a really outstanding sandwich.
PersonX
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 7:21 a.m.
I understand that we live in a time of technology-driven change in the nature of journalism and of the very definition of what a newspaper is, but that does not mean that we need to give up all standards. Nothing personal, but this is not a restaurant review, presented by an experienced person who can present a balanced evaluation based on experience and expertise. This is simply one person's rather uninteresting blog. This is the kind of thing you can send around to friends, or post on a travel website, but it is not a review in the traditional sense. Some may think we no longer need that, but I disagree; the Ann Arbor restaurant scene would benefit from really good, informed restaurant criticism of the kind we find in other cities. Remember Ruth Reichel....?
John Reed
Mon, Apr 19, 2010 : 6:19 a.m.
Sarah, it's too bad you felt rushed for your debut Roadhouse experience. My wife and I have eaten there numerous times and simply LOVE it. The staff are certainly prompt and attentive, but we have found that they are always accommodating to whatever pace we wish to set, never seeming put upon to be asked to give us an extra minute or ten when we want to slow things down and just chat. The brisket is one of my favorites, the flavor from the hours on the grill unlike I could ever have the patience or skill to produce at home. I find its portions to be refreshingly realistic, a healthful amount of beef paired with a generous amount of yummy veggies. We too, often feel a little full for the chocolate cheesecake (it's OMG good) - but that doesn't stop us from grabbing a What the Fudge candy bar or two to go! As for the value, yes the prices are a bit of a shock at first glance; but knowing what I do about the their support of charitable work and other local businesses, and that they take care to treat their employees well... when I combine that with taking the time to really taste the wonderful food, there is no place in Ann Arbor quite like Zingerman's Roadhouse.
M. Hawkins
Sun, Apr 18, 2010 : 6:49 p.m.
If you really want a relaxed, slow-pace meal at Zingerman's Roadhouse for less $, try breakfast any day of the week, I can literally sit for an hour and a half reading the paper and eating my bits n' grits waffle. I agree about the menus, there is too much to read on several menus.
akk
Sun, Apr 18, 2010 : 4:13 p.m.
I think this review is spot on. I love Zingerman's deli, but I've left the Roadhouse feeling that it was overpriced and underwhelming on each of the occasions that I've been.